Saturday, July 17, 2010

Things I did not get pictures of

  • Yesterday I went to the Marmottan Monet Museum, where picture-taking was not allowed.  The temporary exhibit was "Monet and Abstraction"... it was interesting to see how Monet's later works became gradually less impressionistic and more abstract, but I thought they were reaching a bit in comparing his works to, e.g. Jackson Pollack.  But I'm no art historian.  I enjoyed seeing the many Monets, and perhaps even more the two rooms of paintings by Berthe Morisot, another Impressionist.  The upstairs was, quite annoyingly, devoted mostly to perfectly-good-but-not-monetish illuminatins and other Medieval art.
  • I walked back from the museum, seeing some interesting outer-Paris neighborhoods as well as the Trocadero square north of the Eiffel tower (a rather stark contrast between normal-nontouristiness and crazy-touristiness).
  • Last night was another evening of "outdoor wine-related activities".  We didn't get anything thrown at us this time, but we also didn't have cheese.  When I came home, I was quite hungry (due to running right before, and due to having had tea - my customary I've-been-out-until-late-afternoon-without-lunch major meal of the day - but no dinner) and warmed up the pain au chocolate I'd been planning to eat for breakfast today.  It was extremely much better warm than the other one I've had (granted, from a different boulangerie) was cold.
  • This morning I went to Versailles.  I got a not-super-early start, but the trip out was devoid of major hassles.
  • After my camera's revolutionary outburt, there were several more rooms of the Kings and Queen's Chambers (which is most of what the pictures of the Chateau are of... you can't tell b/c all the original furniture was removed in the Revolution, and instead of restoring it to how it used to look, they just filled all the rooms with paintings and/or tourists).  Then I went through the Dauphin and Dauphine's rooms and the Mesdames Rooms.  These were actually some of the best rooms in the palace, and I was sad that my camera had died.  There was a table organ with real pipes, and a library with a dropped ceiling and beautifully lacquered cabinets, and several rooms that were truly delightful in their decoration and/or furnishings (these had been restored to some facsimile of the original style and configuration).  Rick Steve, in one of his many displays of opinionation-that-I-really-don't-agree-with, says this is not worth seeing.
  • On fountain days, the last thing that happens before the Jardins close is the Neptune fountain runs for ten minutes while music plays, and everyone sits in front of it and watches.  But it's not a dancing fountain like the one I took so many pictures of earlier; it's just tons of water coming out of giant metal fixtures and spraying really high, continuously, for ten minutes.  It reminded me of the Chateau itself: all pomp and bombast and demonstration of power (these are the original pipes still being used), at the expense of actual visual beauty.
  • After leaving the palace grounds, I walked a bit in the town of Versailles.  It's a cute town, with an interesting combination of real-lifeiness (large outdoor market) and tourism (right by the palace exit, a whole row of shoe-and-purse stores with higher-than-Paris prices).  
  • On leaving Versailles, I had to wait in line to buy a ticket back.  This annoyed me, because (a) a sensible person would have bought a return ticket in the first place, but that would have required having use of a sensible ticket machine that would allow such a thing, which I did not, (b) many tourists seemed genuinely confused that the machines only accepted coins and French credit cards, despite the fact that this is true of all transport machines, and in particular of whatever machine they had used to buy their ticket on the way out, and (c) French people do not seem to queue by the same rules as Americans, i.e. the FIFO protocol; instead, they just enter the queue wherever they feel like it, i.e. as near the front as possible.  However, due to my last couple years' of Aggressiveness Lessons (otherwise known as living in New York) I managed to get my ticket and get on a train in a reasonable amount of time.
  • And now, I have done pretty much all the major touristy things I wanted to do.  As a reward, I get to spend tomorrow pretending to be French.  Until 8 p.m., when I am supposed to run from Pont Neuf to the Eiffel Tower and back, which I'm pretty sure will disqualify me from all possible types of Frenchness.

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